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I just wanna breathe!
Take a deep breath. Mmmmm....cough choke
hak hak gasp! Oops, sorry, maybe you should stand a
little further away from the exhaust pipe before you do
that. Everybody likes to breathe clean air (New
Yorkers may be an exception). But there seems to be less
and less of it around. Just look across Puget Sound after
a few days of nice weather and you will see a brown haze
hanging there - smog.
Through government regulations we are trying to do
something about that, but what impact will it have on
those of us who like performance cars but can't afford to
buy the latest emission-controlled, computerized,
catalytic-converter-equipped, twin-turbo mega-buck rocket
sled? Is there performance after the emissions test for
older cars? Are there even TABS after the emissions test?
Cheer up. It's not as bad as you might think. First,
we'll take a look at what the standards are for emissions
testing. Then we'll see what factors in our engines
affect emissions. Finally we'll look at some things we
can do to optimize the chances of passing the test. As
you will see, some of them will actually IMPROVE your
car's performance.
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Testing Standards
One thing to understand is that the
(Washington) State standards are much more general than
you might think. The Department of Ecology sent me the
current standards, and they do not distinguish one type
of car from another - it goes strictly by model year.
Only two things are actually regulated: Hydrocarbons (HC)
in parts per million (ppm) and Carbon Monoxide (CO)
percent. They do measure Carbon Dioxide (CO2) but only to
validate the test. The total of CO and CO2 must exceed 6%
for the test to be valid. The actual standards are:
| Model Year |
HC (ppm) |
CO (%) |
| 68-74 |
900 |
6.0 |
| 75-80 |
600 |
3.0 |
| 81-93 |
220 |
1.2 |
| 94-99 |
100 |
0.5 |
These are the upper limits. The DOE claims that a
properly running car, tuned to the manufacturer's specs,
should not exceed 300 ppm HC and 1.5% CO if it is not
equipped with a catalytic converter. Those figures drop
to 100 ppm HC and 0.5% CO for cars with converters.
Notice that the upper limits do not distinguish between
cars with catalytic converters and those without.
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Causes of Emissions
Where do HC and CO come from? Basically
from incomplete combustion. Complete combustion of
gasoline would yield CO2 and water and we wouldn't have a
problem. But complete combustion isn't feasible in
today's engines. So we get unburned hydrocarbons going
out the tailpipe along with carbon di- and monoxide,
nitrogen oxides (NOx) and various other unhealthy crap.
Interestingly, the nitrogen oxides aren't measured or
regulated in Washington, yet NOx is the real
"baddie" when it comes to environmental
effects. Nitrogen dioxide (NO2) is a major poison that
causes paralysis of the central nervous system. It reacts
with sunlight to produce both smog and ozone and causes
irritation of the lungs and mucous membranes. The two
major factors that influence emissions are fuel mixture
and ignition timing. The old rule of thumb has been to
use an air/fuel mixture ratio of 12:1 for power and 15:1
for economy. HC emissions are lowest at about 16:1 to
16.5:1. CO emissions are fairly low and constant above
15:1 but go up rapidly below that. So a lean mixture is
better as far as emissions go. But a lean mixture can be
hard to ignite and an overly lean engine will tend to
overheat and ping or detonate. Missing can also cause a
high HC reading due to the unburned gas. Try to go as
lean as you can. If you are running SU's, they are easy
to adjust; other carbs require more work. Fortunately, a
CO reading of 6.0% equates to an air/fuel ratio of
12.24:1, so you should be okay from that standpoint.
As for ignition timing, advance has very little effect
on CO emissions, but it does increase HC output. How much
it increases depends on the air/fuel ratio. At around
16:1, the HC emissions at 40o advance are more than
double what they are with 20o advance. At 12:1 the
increase due to the same advance is more like 50% but the
overall HC is still much higher than at the leaner ratio.
The bottom line is, the less advance, the less HC.
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Optimizing
As we have seen, the two main factors in
your engine that affect emissions that you can easily
modify are mixture and ignition timing. But that's
assuming the engine is running correctly to begin with. A
tired engine that is sucking oil past the valve seals and
guides and is blowing combustion gases past worn-out
rings is going to have a tough time passing the test no
matter how you tune it. A certain amount of engine oil
will be burned even in a fresh engine. The cleanliness of
this oil can affect emissions readings. If the oil is
really grubby, change it before you go in for the test.
There are other factors affecting the richness of the
mixture besides the jetting. A dirty or plugged air
filter will cause an artificially rich condition. Install
a clean filter before you go in for the test. Better yet,
install a low-restriction unit like a K&N filter and
pick up a couple of horsepower in the bargain.
Usually an engine runs a lot richer on the idle jets
than it does on the primary circuit. You might be able to
get off the idle jets by raising the idle speed, but it
has to be under 1000 rpm or they won't run the test.
One cause of HC emissions at idle is weak or
inadequate spark. High compression and a lean mixture
will make it harder to get full ignition, as will fouled
spark plugs. A long-duration or multiple-spark ignition
system like those made by Crane or MSD will assure more
complete combustion at low rpm and clean up some of those
HC problems, in addition to giving you more power and
cleaner spark plugs. Make sure you have fresh plugs in
the engine for the test.
A more subtle factor that affects HC emissions is cam
timing. Long duration cams with lots of overlap (where
the intake and exhaust valves are open at the same time)
increase HC because unburned fuel flows directly from the
intake to the exhaust. This is great for top-end
performance because it cools the exhaust valve and helps
scavenge the cylinder of the waste gases from the
previous power stroke. But it can kill you at the testing
station.
Can you do anything about it? Yes. High-revving
engines with heavy valve springs are notoriously hard on
valve seats. The valves pound away at the seats and sink
into the head. This tightens up the valve lash. Since
many of these cams have long ramps at the ends of the
valve events, this decreased clearance will actually
increase the effective cam duration and consequently the
overlap increases, too. In addition to increasing HC,
this can also hurt low-end performance. Make sure your
valves are adjusted correctly to prevent excessive
overlap.
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Into the Future
The State standards have gotten tighter
over time. For example, the last time I tested our 510,
the HC standard was 1000 ppm; now it is 900. In 1990, the
standards for our 1984 Stanza dropped from 300 HC and 2.0
CO to 220 HC and 1.2 CO. We may be faced eventually with
going beyond tuning and maintenance to keep our cars on
the road. Some firms like HKS are starting to produce
free-flowing catalytic converters. And Haltech sells an
electronic fuel injection system that can be installed on
just about any car, including old Datsuns. It is
programmable from a pc so you can change the tuning very
easily. A number of the hot autocrossers are using it
now. Knock sensors are already available that can be tied
into an electronic ignition system to retard the timing.
It is conceivable that we may have to resort to such
modifications in the future. That seems like a high price
to pay, but how much is your breath worth?
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